The Butcher's Daughter

Baby Steps

2011-12-09T18:17:00.008-05:00

Here's an article about Smithfield hopefully, finally committing to stop using gestation crates. Let's hope they keep their promise this time.

Smithfield Foods To Stop Using Gestation Crates For Pigs By 2017

Also check out this video released by the Humane Society which gives a bit of background on the whole issue.

Save some Salmon

2011-11-16T13:40:00.018-05:00

I recently went to hear Paul Greenberg speak, author of Four Fish, a NYT bestseller.

The lecture was held at The Explorers Club on the Upper East Side, which was sort of like stepping into a childlike fantasy, a Tudor style mansion outfitted with oak panelled walls, naturally.

But the stuffed Polar Bear, Elephant Tusks, and gigantic vintage globe really added to the euphoria.. if you have the opportunity, Go!

But to the important stuff.. Fish!!

Specifically Salmon..
(most of what we eat in this country is farmed)

The largest remaining Wild Salmon habitat on Earth is close to becoming no more!
Millions of sockeye, Chinook, chum, coho and pink salmon return from the sea to their spawning grounds in the pristine waters of Bristol Bay each year.

Sadly it may become the home to Pebble Mine, which would be the largest open-pit mine in America.
Help out Bristol Bay by going to SaveBristolBay

Also locally try to always buy Sockeye Salmon, which more than likely is fished from the Bristol Bay. Lets save some Salmon!

oh no Turkey!

2011-09-14T10:43:00.004-04:00

Yet again another recall of ground Turkey.
Cargill recalls 185,000 pounds!!
In addition to the 2 million pounds of meat the company recovered and buried in a landfill.

You can read about it here.
Turkey Recall

That's a lot of Turkey.

Makes you think about how those Turkeys live.
And where this random occurring bacterium is coming from.
hmmm..

I think Turkeys should live like this..

You can buy these Turkeys at Heritage Foods USA

I know they're double the price of the weird genetically modified birds..
but try it out.

Russian Butcher

2011-07-09T01:23:00.000-04:00

Oh Styria..

2011-06-30T20:43:00.003-04:00

I'm just back from a trip to Vienna.. of course there was schnitzel and goulash and pastries galore.

But there were also all things Styrian!
I have to admit I didn't know what or where Styria was.
Luckily I came to find out it's a state of Austria located in the southeast.

Known for its pumpkin seed oil... which was amazing..
It was this smoked speck that got my attention.

The most.. melt in your mouth fatty..
wonderful piece of smoked meat I've eaten in a VERY long time.

Served with grated horseradish and pickles..

Styria. I will come to you.

It's OK.

2011-06-14T12:07:00.006-04:00

Finally the USDA has let everyone know that it's
OK to cook Pork Medium Rare!!
Hooray!

At last we can all enjoy juicy flavorful pork..
instead of dry stringy meat.

I found this video from the National Pork Board..
funny.

Click Here to Watch what the difference 15 degrees makes

Meat Party!

2011-05-30T14:06:00.003-04:00

This July I'll be cooking at Meatopia!
Tickets just went on sale..

An outdoor festival of meat held on the water in Brooklyn.
Lots of great chefs.. Lots of meat!

Come say Hi!

Buy tickets online here:
Meatopia

Schnitzel.. Schnitzel.

2011-05-05T11:23:00.006-04:00

I love a dish that starts somewhere and goes on to take over the world..
Each culture putting their own mark on it.

I love Schnitzel and so do all these places..

Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, Chile, Columbia, Croatia, Cuba, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Hungary, Iran, Israel, Italy, Japan, Macedonia, Mexico, Namibia, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Russia, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, United Kingdom, United States, and Venezuela.

The original dish has its roots in Viennese cuisine, originally called Wiener Schnitzel in Austria.
It's Veal pounded really thin. coated in breadcrumbs and served with a lemon wedge.
It can also come with a Sardine filet, capers and either potato salad or potatoes with parsley and butter.

In Germany and Austria Wiener Schnitzel is protected by law to always be made from Veal.. so if you'd like to use Pork you'll have to call it something different..

Of course someone else would like to take responsibility for such a tasty creation.. there have been rumors since the late 1800s that Milan was the birth place of this perfect dish.

Whoever invented this.. we are all glad they did!

Schnitzel has evolved to include just about any meat pounded thin and breaded.
From Chicken to Pork..to Peasant to Alligator.

And can be accompanied by garnishes like Eggs, Plantains, Melted Cheese, French Fries, or Pasta.

I like mine with Mashed Potatoes and Lemon..

Bravo

2011-04-08T11:16:00.002-04:00

Food Curated made this amazing video of an upstate slaughter house.
A super honest and truthful look at how our animals turn into our meat.
Enjoy!

To watch more visit their site Food Curated

Curly, Wooly, Hairy.

2011-03-31T12:46:00.003-04:00

Mangalitsa.. or Mangalitza.. or Mangalica.

They all refer to the same breed of pig from Hungary and raised throughout the Balkans.

The great thing besides their cuddly coat..
is that instead of being raised for meat.. they're raised for Lard!

Oddly their fat is more unsaturated than other breeds.
Meaning its lighter, cleaner, and melts at a lower heat.

And all that equals delicious porky flavor that tastes different than any pig you've had before.

a Heart for a Heart

2011-02-10T21:33:00.002-05:00

Oh Valentine's Day...

You can go the tried and true Chocolate and Champagne route...
or the Aphrodisiacs.. Oysters and Caviar

But why not go straight to the heart.. Anticuchos!

The popular and delicious street food of Peru..
thinly sliced pieces of cow heart pierced onto skewers and seasoned with vinegar and spices like cumin, garlic, and aji peppers.

They're great with a little boiled potato on the end of the skewer.. or a squeeze of lime.

I "heart" you Moose

2011-01-28T12:21:00.003-05:00

While is Sweden recently I had the pleasure of trying smoked moose heart!

Moose being such a large animal with such a big heart I thought it might be on the chewy side.
To my surprise it was a delicate and lightly smoked treat.

If you ever have the chance don't be scared away! You'll find this one of the most tender and flavorful savory bites!

(the heart was cut in lobes and smoked, served with a traditional line up of Swedish accompaniments)

Black Sheep!

2010-11-30T11:59:00.007-05:00

I'm reading a book on the history of color...
currently learning about the color black.
Back in the middle ages it was a difficult and long process to make black clothing..
It usually involved burning wood, roots, or plants and using the ash which even then didn't produce a true black.

But!! Using wool from animals who were naturally black, such as the mutton of black-fleeced Welsh Mountain Sheep guaranteed a true black fabric. And during the mid-19th century, some breeders began to select specifically for the black fleece color which resulted in the Black Welsh Mountain Sheep!

Merchants went crazy for it.. people got to wear black clothes.. and in the end, the actual animals tasted pretty good as well!
Win. Win. Win.

Even to this day it's the only completely black breed of sheep found in the United Kingdom and was brought to the U.S. in 1972.

I was lucky enough to get my hands on one from HeritageFoods USA.. which I broke down and did a series of specials with at EmployeesOnly!

*the whole animal*

*breaking down the quarters*

*cutting out the loin, wish I had a band saw*

Turkey Time

2010-11-19T17:37:00.001-05:00

thanks to the NewYorkTimes for this

Lamb 101

2010-11-19T09:56:00.003-05:00

I'm teaching a class at Whole Foods Bowery in a few weeks..
if you want to learn some great stuff about lamb!

Tuesday, December 7th

Lamb 101 with the Butcher's Daughter
7:00 pm - 9:00 pm

Demonstration and Tasting, $30
Lamb is such a versatile animal, used by numerous cultures worldwide and cooked in many different ways. Join us as Chef Julia Jaksic takes you through a fascinating farm-to-table demonstration of all things lamb: different cuts, basic butchering, cooking methods, and various recipes, using local Pine Hill lamb, raised on Kyle Farms in upstate Genesee County.
On the Menu: Bacon-Wrapped Lamb Chops; Braised Lamb-Shoulder Tacos; North African Leg of Lamb; Crispy Lamb Belly.

Register Here!

Dearest Mortadella,

2010-11-05T11:56:00.005-04:00

Last night at dinner I finally found someone who shared my love for you!

I know I know.. you're basically bologna. But so much more refined..

First you're from Bologna.. yes Italy!
You're seasoned with black pepper, myrtle berries, nutmeg, and coriander!
Then studded with pork fat and Pistachios!!

I'll always love you..

Get your Grub!

2010-10-15T09:43:00.002-04:00

Tomorrow is the the GrubStreet food fest at Hester Street Fair..
I'll be there making Balkan Burgers.. stop by!!

Shake It!

2010-10-14T02:50:00.004-04:00

A little off the topic of all things meat..

Yesterday was the release of the Employees Only cocktail book..
the final page has our recipe for 'last call' Chicken Soup!

Get a copy!!
Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails Reimagined

The Abattoir

2010-10-12T00:51:00.006-04:00

SlowFood NYC is hosting a great panel tomorrow to discuss the importance of the slaughterhouse.. more importantly the mobile slaughterhouse.

Great guests talking about an important and interesting issue!
Try to make it..

Dan Barber of Blue Hill, Glynwood President Judith LaBelle, Jen Small of Flying Pigs Farm, Dan Gibson of Grazin’ Angus Acres, and upstate butcher Debbie Ball.
At Jimmy’s No.43 – 43 E. 7th St. (btn 2nd and 3rd Aves) from 6pm-8pm.

More info here...
Slaughterhouse 101

Grow!

2010-10-06T12:43:00.003-04:00

Short Ribs from Grazin' Angus I'm making for this evenings "Taste of Greenmarket Event"

more info here:
Taste Of GreenMarket 2010

lamb.. oh little lamb.

2010-08-31T00:40:00.001-04:00

When I lived in Chicago I would go to this festival and eat this lamb.
I miss it!

LAMB, Croatian Style!

factory farms.. Adios!

2010-08-13T17:17:00.002-04:00

Finally.. little by little a change begins.
Farmers Lean to Truce on Animals’ Close Quarters

Bacon Wrapped What....Ever.

2010-07-21T02:30:00.006-04:00

A few weeks ago 'The Best Thing I Ever Ate' stopped by the restaurant..
Rocco DiSpirito kindly suggested that my lamb chops were the best wrapped thing he'd eaten..

So I thought I'd pass along the recipe..
really quite easy..

I use New Zealand lamb chops since they're small and really tender.. but any lamb chop will do.
then they're wrapped in bacon and fried.. (they can also be baked) .. but the frying really seals in all the juices.

I serve them with a salsa verde (southern Italian style)...which is:
capers, shallots, garlic, lemon, anchovies, parsley, and olive oil.

Here's a photo...

And here's a link to a real recipe on the Heritage Foods website.
Bacon Wrapped Lamb Chops

BATS!!

2010-07-15T02:36:00.009-04:00

So while eating our King Cobra Snake (post to come..promise)
our servers attempted to up sell us on a local specialty..

the Flying Fox Bat..

I'm sure someone on television has already taped an episode eating one of these creatures.. describing the taste and texture. (refer to one of those)

I passed.. this bat was freaked out.. and when it started defecating it became too much...even for me.

If we had been hunting and shot it.. that's one thing..
this was another.

Apparently eating bats are good for the male libido... but this seems to be the case for most anything in Vietnam.

In places like Guam the eating of bats have been linked to causing SARS!! yikes!

Back in Action!

2010-07-05T16:25:00.003-04:00

Whoa it's been awhile..
lots of travelling and exciting projects.

Happy Fourth of July!
Hope everyone ate lots of this...

and.. apologies to my blog for neglecting you!

This Girl.

2010-04-16T09:50:00.004-04:00

Barabara at About.com put together a great piece about me, including a few recipes, on her Eastern European Food blog.

Here it is!
Profile of The Butcher's Daughter

Pickled Bear!

2010-04-11T14:23:00.003-04:00

I haven't looked into this too much, but while in Vietnam we saw this baby pickled bear.

I'm not sure what the spiritual benefits to eating bear are, I do know the Vietnamese use a variety of animal parts to cure certain ailments and help to restore vitality and luck.

If anyone can shed some light on this.. please do.

Water Buffalo

2010-04-01T19:22:00.006-04:00

97% of all Water Buffalo in the world live in Asia!
They've been domesticated for over 5,000 years.

They're used for work animals, dairy production, and meat.
I'd never been close to one but they were everywhere in Vietnam.

I saw them in rice fields, back yards, on sticks spinning around, almost anywhere just outside a city.

This guy was right outside a place we ate in the Mekong.

We set out to explore early one morning and saw this water buffalo spinning..

but when we came back.. there was nothing left!

I had always thought of them as just mozzarella makers..

Imperial Cuisine

2010-03-29T12:47:00.014-04:00

The city of Hue, right on the Perfume river was the Imperial capital of Vietnam for 150 years.
In that time there was an Emperor named Tu Duc, a really picky eater, who demanded his food be different than that served to ordinary people.

SO the chefs of the time transformed food into art.
The trend stuck and its since been known as "Imperial Cuisine"

There are a few places in Hue that still carry on the tradition.. and amazingly most of the chefs preparing this cuisine are women who have lineage that can be traced back to imperial households.

This knowledge has been passed down through the generations.
This is what we ate!

And here is one of the entrances to the old Imperial City

hola?

2010-03-24T12:28:00.008-04:00

Its been ages! Shortly after arriving back from Vietnam I set off again to Sayulita, Mexico.
Another amazing trip with lots of food inspiration and photos!

But for now back to Vietnam..
Thought I'd start with a few images of butcher type shots I took.
Its always interesting to see how other countries handle their animals!

Cao Lau!

2010-03-04T10:00:00.005-05:00

When in Hoi An you must try this local dish.
A specialty known by the Vietnamese to only be found in this small town.

Why?

First and most important the Water.
It comes from old wells around the city dug up by the Cham people hundreds of years ago and it's said that this simple ingredient is the source for the unique taste.
(I guess its goes along with that whole, water makes the bagels in NYC!)

Next the Lye used to make the make the noodles come from the ashes of trees indigenous to Hoi An.

And finally the Rice is a local variety.

So what is Cao Lau?

Simply put.. thick rice noodles and beautiful roasted Pork in a pungent Pork broth garnished with Mint, Lettuce, Cilantro and topped off with thinly fried Pork skin.

We decided to head out of the city center and follow all the motor bike drivers to the front of someone's house to eat this.
So simple, so good.

Viet!

2010-03-01T11:28:00.006-05:00

The next few posts will be about things I ate in Vietnam.
It was an incredible 2 weeks of eating and being surrounded by an amazingly beautiful country with an energetic culture.

So I begin slowly not with an animal but a fruit that I never knew existed.

The Sapodilla!
A super sweet caramel like tasting fruit with a texture between a really ripe pear and a persimmon.

Oddly the fruit is Native to Central America.
We raise them in Florida, if you see one, buy it!
Cut it open and scoop the flesh out.
Be careful with the seeds, they have a hook to them that can get caught in your throat! Ouch!

Heeelloooo Nam'

2010-02-14T02:13:00.005-05:00

I'm off to Vietnam for 2 weeks..

I'll be eating lots of this...
Pho sure!!
(sorry, I had to)

There will be lots to tell!

!? Veal Goat ?!

2010-02-08T10:31:00.007-05:00

or Cabrito...

A friend sent this description over from a processing plant close to Los Angeles..

Cabrito are very small goats, veal goat. They are not much bigger than a rabbit 4-7 pounds dressed. They are cleaned for people, but great for the dogs as well.

yikes! I thought I would clear up a few things.
First they are young kid goats.. only 1 to 3 months in age.

Second, since they are still milk fed they are sometimes referred to as Veal Goats.

And lastly Cabrito is a Spanish word that refers to the dish of roasted young kid goat.
But overtime we have used the word to refer to any dish (roasted, stewed, or braised) using this young animal.

oh and Monterrey, Mexico is usually thought of as the headquarters of cabrito!

Why are little mini things always so cute..animals, hamburgers, golf..

Its a Cake! Its a Sandwich!

2010-02-03T13:50:00.004-05:00

It's full of meaty goodness.. It's a Smörgåstårta!

Another reason to visit Sweden soon..
I saw one of these sandwich cakes at a party a long time ago
and always wondered where they originated.
And finally I've found out.

Here's the deal-
You take a loaf of bread cut it the long way, and layer fillings like a cake.

These fillings can be:
Pate
Shrimp Salad
Egg Salad
Caviar
Cold Cuts
Salmon
Chicken Salad
Insert whatever else you like to put on a sandwich..

And then frost it with Mayonnaise!!

Make it look appetizing by decorating it with olives, cucumbers, cheese, gherkins, tomatoes, radish, or any pretty vegetable.

Like a cake it looks to good to eat!

I'll be trying my hand at one soon..
will be sure to post some photos.

Fit Meat?

2010-01-28T23:48:00.006-05:00

Maybe this is how the whole over-consumption thing started..

I obviously have an affection for meat.. but I don't need it to stay fit!

This stamp is from the Producers Livestock Commission 1941
National Stock Yards, Illinois

Temple!

2010-01-25T13:46:00.002-05:00

I've posted about Temple Grandin in the past.. and have heard rumors about Claire Danes playing her in an upcoming HBO series.
And here it is!

I was a little apprehensive but it looks like Claire studied her stuff.. she sounds so much like Temple.
This is a story that needs to be told!

Le Balkan Burger

2010-01-21T18:01:00.005-05:00

Thought I'd share an article I'm mentioned in from this weeks
New York Times Dining Section.

The Balkan Burger Unites All Factions

Canard Au Sang .. or Pressed Duck

2010-01-18T12:56:00.007-05:00

A traditional French dish made famous by the Tour d'Argent restaurant in Paris. Sadly very rare to find in America.. I know that a press exists at Daniel, unfortunately the dish is not on the menu.

It begins with a young duck which is strangled, to keep as much blood as possible. The duck is roasted.. and then the delicacy begins.

A Maitre'd pushes a clothed cart to your table holding the ornate press and begins by carving out the breasts (taking out the liver), and sending the legs back to the kitchen for the next course.

Everything else left on the carving board is thrust into the press and crushed!
The marrow, blood, and juices come running out of the press.
These are cooked table side with the addition of cognac (sometimes port or madiera), butter, and occasionally the liver to thicken.

The result is said to be "the height of elegance"
This decadent sauce is showered atop the breasts and enjoyed!

It may help to just watch it!

Voilà!
If anyone finds a place in NYC that does this...
Let's go to dinner!

Choose It.

2010-01-11T11:54:00.008-05:00
Here's the deal with USDA Beef stamps and grades.
It can be confusing...and you can end up buying the wrong grade.

USDA Prime
Best grade. This meat comes from young well fed cattle with lots of marbling. Mostly sold to restaurants. These cuts are usually cooked under hot direct heat.

USDA Choice
Also a good grade.. these cuts have less marbling than prime grades.
But are still good for quick cooking and also include braised cuts.
Most common grade found in supermarkets.

USDA Select
These cuts tend to be leaner.. with much less marbling.
Most of what you find under this grade will have to be braised.
Also found in retail stores.

The last two grades are "Standard and Commercial" which are sold as "store brand" meats..and "Utility, Cutter, Canner" used for ground beef, or processed products.

GameyGame!!

2010-01-09T14:11:00.004-05:00
I always make sure to have some sort of game on my menu.. right now it happens to be Elk Loin.

Listen to the latest Brian Lehrer show about the popularity of game in America!

little little Pretties

2009-12-31T10:49:00.006-05:00
A friend was in for dinner the other night and we were discussing interesting delicacies found throughout the world..she mentioned a tiny French bird.
The Ortolan.

These are little bunting song birds kept alive in a dark box. The lack of light confuses their eating habits and causes them to gorge themselves, usually with oats and millet.

It's not unheard of for there to be force fed delicacies found in France.. but here is where it gets interesting.

To eat these little birds (only 6 inches long), you drown them in Cognac!
And as Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin wrote, you would only eat these roasted cognac drunk birds, inards, bones and all, with a beautiful embroidered napkin draped over your head.

The napkin is said to keep in the delicious and delicate aroma. But really I think you covered yourself from looking like a complete savage, gnawing on little sharp bones which were notorious for cutting the gums of its consumer.. the mixing of the bloods was said to heighten the experience even more.

Wow! dear dear Gourmands.. it is now illegal to sell them in France, however not to eat them.

Watch Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear indulge in a little pretty!

Win This!

2009-12-28T15:27:00.003-05:00
I would buy lots of these raffle tickets!

thanks for the photo Mr. Brisky

Squeeeal

2009-12-22T14:53:00.002-05:00
I hope I see this in Vietnam!

photo courtesy of Albino

More Horsing Around

2009-12-16T18:26:00.007-05:00
This is a follow up to a post I made a few months ago regarding horse meat, and who eats it.

Today I read about the latest "Le Fooding" event held in Paris.

I went to "Le Fooding" held at PS1 back in September.
It featured chefs, DJs and artists from Paris and New York.

The latest event they threw was in an abandoned swimming pool in Paris and featured HORSE!

Check it out!
Eating Horse Meat in a Paris Pool

Hunting Knowledge

2009-12-14T14:01:00.019-05:00
Hunters like a big meal!

You HAVE to wear orange (otherwise you might get shot!)

Make sure you strap yourself into the tree stand..
(yes people fall out after slowly dozing off)

Have some sort of Deer Wall Art

Make sure you use the meat after its hunted!

Cows, and Cows, and Cows.

2009-12-06T14:35:00.007-05:00
There are all these fancy new kinds of beef you pay top dollar for in restaurants.
What are they!

Piedmontese Beef
These cows were brought over from Piemonte (a region in Northwest Italy), by an Italian family in the early 80's. There are about 12,000 animals now registered in the US.

Their meat is very tender while also being very lean.
Availability can vary since there aren't many herds in America.
But if you can find it, buy it!

On to the Japan.
Wagyu and Kobe. So much confusion.

Wagyu refers to a few kinds of cattle bred in Japan, prized for its tenderness and marbled texture.

Kobe comes from the the black Tajima-ushi breed of Wagyu cattle.

More than likely you're not getting real Kobe beef unless you travel to Japan!

There's an organization in Japan that watches over the distribution of Kobe beef, they have standards the cattle must meet in order to be true Kobe Beef.

1. Has to be a Tajima cattle born in Hyōgo Prefecture
2. Fed by farm in the Hyōgo Prefecture
3. Bullock or Virgin cow, meant to purify the beef
4. Has to be processed at slaughterhouse in Kobe, Nishinomiya, Sanda, Kakogawa and Himeji in Hyōgo Prefecture.
5. Marbling ratio called is a level 6 and above.
6. Meat Quality Score is A or B
7. Gross weight of the beef is 470 kg or below.

Yes.. they each get a beer a day, usually in the summer to stimulate their appetite. And they get brushed with Sake, some farmers believe a softer coat makes for better meat.

What you can buy here is more than likely a Wagyu/Angus cross breed, marketed as American Kobe or just as Wagyu. There have been a few different Wagyu breeds introduced here since the 70s. In any case American Wagyu is a great product!

the day we Eat!

2009-11-26T04:07:00.004-05:00
Here are my quick turkey cooking tips.

- Buy a Heritage Breed Bird
- Brine if you can
- Basting and Stuffing are evil!! (I know mom does..but it doesn't make it right)
- Watch a you tube video on trussing and tie that bird up
- Smear butter under the skin of the breasts
- Cook on the bottom rack of your oven
- Start the cooking at 500 degrees for 30 minutes
- Make a breast shield out of aluminum foil (think triangle shape)
- Put this shield on and turn your oven down to 350 degrees
- Plan on cooking 10-12 minutes per pound
- Best way to check doneness is a thermometer
- This thermometer should read 161
- Let it have its time to rest... 20 minutes (it's a big bird)

Here are a few photos from the Turkey 101 class I taught at Whole Foods last week. I hope everyone loves their bird this holiday!!

Partridge in a Pear Tree

2009-11-18T23:58:00.006-05:00
I just taught a Turkey 101 class and I'm feelin' the holiday spirit..
So for the last of my game bird posts I thought I'd finish with a holiday bird we sing about, but more than likely have never tasted.

What's this business about a bird in a pear tree?
Well.. the partridge in the pear tree refers to the one and only..
Jesus Christ.

Right... well let's talk about eating it.
So as I've said in every game bird post, darker lean meat means roasting with an introduction of some sort of fat.
Bacon is a given but try getting caul fat from your butcher and wrapping it around the bird before you roast it.

Last year I made Partridge Paprikash using the same method as chicken, it was great! In fact this is a good stewing bird.

I'm off to central Wisconsin in the morning to go deer hunting!
First time, little scary.. I'll report back.

pretty..pretty..Pheasant

2009-11-12T21:37:00.004-05:00
Continuing with game birds it's on to Pheasant.

A native to China..they were brought to Europe and prized for their exotic beauty and tasty meat.
The right to shoot them in Britain was reserved to the upper class.
They like eating bugs and seeds.. but foxes and raccoons like to eat them.

The boys are the ones with the beautiful looks!

One of the more mild game birds, there's so much you can do with pheasant..

It can be a little tough depending on its age, and like all game it's going to be lean. SO introducing fat (especially to the breast) is something you should consider.

You can roast them or braise them.. make a soup, salad, or terrine!
Get a pheasant from a hunting friend (just watch out for the bullet.. ouch!) or go to a specialty food store or buy online!

oh- rumor says that Yankee Doodle put a Pheasant feather in his hat and called it Macaroni!

Grouse... gross?

2009-11-04T00:38:00.004-05:00
Talking to a friend the other day about Grouse made me think about the unpopularity of game birds in the US.
Since this is prime game bird season I thought I'd write a few posts about them... starting with Grouse.

Granted its been a few years since I've eaten or cooked one.. I remember it having a strong, dark, gamey taste.
I should note the grouse I ate was shot wild!

The rule is, when you eat a wild animal it always tastes way different than the same farm raised animal.
The reasons being that the wild animals are usually migratory, have a very different diet and are much more active.

Most farmed grouse in America are raised in the Dakota's (true of most game birds), and are a breed called Ruffed Grouse.

They weigh right about a pound..live in the forest and love to eat pine needles, berries, and buds!
In order to process all the grit they're getting with their food from the forest floor they usually have big gizzards and long intestines.
So its really important to make sure they're washed properly inside and out.

Since these guys are small and have very little fat on them, I would recommend roasting them with bacon covering the breast, making sure not to overcook them.
Or just remove the breast (since there's not much other meat) and sear it medium rare. You can use the remainder of the bird to make a great sauce for the breasts.

thanks deliciousmagazine.co.uk for the image!

MummyDogs

2009-10-30T22:02:00.004-04:00

Skirt Steak & Elliot

2009-10-26T18:30:00.002-04:00

Food Gold: Seared Skirt Steak With Panzanella Salad from ourshow on Vimeo.

RIP Elroy

2009-10-21T01:04:00.007-04:00
Today I opened my inbox and received a message from a dear friend writing to tell me that Elroy (mate to Big Pink) had passed.

"I greet you with some sad news. Our benevolent King, the Almighty Elroy, Boar upon High, has passed. He was sick for some time, and has gone to Valhalla, where he now gets to roots in lush pastures and stinky, muddy wallows. In the end, it was his greatest asset that did him in. Some sort of trauma to his testicles led to an infection that was his undoing. He was peaceful in the end, brave and composed and dignified.

It is not the end we would have envisioned for our Farm hero. There were no curing bacchanals or funeral pyres. But I give you this photo, so that you might hold his legacy close to your heart, and possibly your fork."

Elroy and his offspring photo courtesy of Farmer Jake

Bonjour Charolais

2009-10-17T22:10:00.005-04:00
While driving from Paris down to Marseille this summer there were a few interesting things I came across..

One thing was this cooling tower with a child playing on it....

Another were lots and lots of white cows!
Having grown up around Holstein's I didn't realize how accustomed I'd become to driving and seeing their big black spots.
The contrasting white cows in the bright green pastures looked beautiful while coasting through the French country side.

I found out this cow was called a Charolais..
In the 16th and 17th centuries they were the favorite in French markets, especially in Lyon.

Brought to America in the 40's via the South, and raised as a beef breed prized for their red meat, they are also good milkers, and are used for cross breeding.

Apparently no other breed has impacted the North American beef industry as they have.
Farmers like them for their large frames, (heavier than the traditional British breeds), their overall ability to walk, graze, stand up to the cold, and raise heavy calves.

I just like their look..

Italian Butchers

2009-10-14T02:56:00.003-04:00
...thanks Passerotti...

I love old images of butchers, especially pre-refrigeration.
It was eat it now, or salt it and eat it later.

chickie

2009-10-10T14:38:00.007-04:00
While down in Georgia I had the opportunity to hang out with some chickens..
I moved them to fresh patches of grass everyday, fed them, ran after them, and probably just pestered them with my overall interest and intrigue.

But most importantly I learned about humane slaughtering of the birds.
Everyone has an image of a crazy cleaver clenching grandma and a headless bird running around!

But that of course isn't the preferred way of taking a chickens life.
Instead when a chicken is held upside down it gets disoriented and after a few seconds starts to relax.
They are slid into traffic cones, where the tips are cut off enough to allow the head of the chicken to come through.
Then the main vein in their neck is slit and they bleed to death.
Apparently the birds just feel a rush of blood and then they pass out.

I was also fortunate enough to have an amazing farm lunch in the back of a big red pick up truck, parked in the middle of a field within sight of the chickens. I wonder if those birds could see us tearing apart one of their kin with our bare hands.
Cold roasted chicken, dijonaise, baguette. And ice cold Rose passed around, perfect lunch for some farm hands.

Here's a quick clip of Jake telling me how they butcher the birds so its most comfortable for them.

Ćevapčići

2009-10-03T19:09:00.008-04:00
The famous Balkan street food!
A casing-less ground meat sausage.. which should be grilled..

Usually served with bread or grilled pita and accompanied by raw onions and kajmak (an eastern european version of clotted cream).

One of my favorite things to eat at a soccer game...
I thought I'd pass on a recipe for this quintessential Eastern European dish.

Of course the recipe I was given makes 100 pounds.. but I shrunk it down and got this:

1 1/4 pounds ground Beef
3/4 pounds ground Pork (feel free to substitute with lamb or veal)
4 cloves fresh Garlic (minced)
1 teaspoon fresh ground Black Pepper
1 teaspoon fresh ground White Pepper
3 teaspoons Vegeta
1 teaspoon Salt

- Mix all ingredients together.. Don't work meat too much!

2 slices fresh white bread
1/2 (roughly) water
1 teaspoon Baking Powder

- This is where it gets tricky... You want to break up the pieces of bread into little pieces, add the baking powder and water. You can use a potato masher or handheld blender to get a smooth, soup like consistency.
You may need to add a little more water if the mixture is too dry.

- Add this to the meat and mix just until combined, be careful not to mix too much or you'll end up with tough sausages.
-A sausage stuffer or kitchen aid attachment works best, or you can use a funnel. But the idea is to shape the sausages without rolling them.. again to get the most tender meat.

Let them sit overnight and grill them the next day!

Smokey!

2009-10-02T01:18:00.003-04:00
Who wants to help me build this?!?

http://www.canr.uconn.edu/ansci/ext/build_smokehouse.pdf

Neigh..

2009-09-25T02:45:00.009-04:00
Last week I had a lovely table in the restaurant... they ordered a great meal with all my favorites from the current menu.
They were super pleasant, had a great bottle of wine, informed us that they were visiting from Canada and then....
Asked if we had any recommendations of butchers in the city that sell Horse Meat!!

I was taken totally off guard and felt like I did something wrong just by hearing the question!
We informed the sweet couple that we don't eat our horses in this country...
To which they responded .. "Oh its such a delicious, sweet tasting meat"

The whole experience got me thinking and researching.
I was positive that it was illegal but upon investigation I was wrong!
It's perfectly legal to eat horse meat in America.

In fact people have been eating horses forever! All over Europe, Asia, and South America.
The taboos with horse meat range from it being a poor peoples food to the close connection most humans have with the animals.

Here's a great story I found on how horses are thought of..treated.. and eaten in Kazakhstan.. It talks about ages of slaughter and cuts of meat.

http://polosbastards.com/pb/kazakhstan-horsemeat

I've never eaten horse meat.. its definitely a foreign idea to me.. But when in a country that eats horse.. eat horse?

Pastrama

2009-09-19T13:25:00.003-04:00
I love Pastrami.. I live 3 blocks from Katz's .. I eat it a lot!

On a recent trip to Turkey I found an old man selling something that looked like Pastrami.. but wasn't what I was used to eating.
After a little research I was excited to learn that pastrami was much more than a NY deli staple.

So back in the day people would brine whatever meat they couldn't eat at the time of slaughter.
Most common ways of preserving meat was through salting, smoking, or brining.

Its said that Pastrami is probably a descendant of Balkan smoked meats, especially Romanian Pastramă. And likely rooted in the Turkish pastırma.

This stuff is totally different than the pastrami we're used to eating. The meat is salted, washed and dried for 10-15 days and all the blood and salt is squeezed out. Its covered with a paste usually consisting of cumin, paprika, fenugreek, and garlic.
To serve its sliced really thin and sometimes fried in olive oil, or served "as is" on mezze plates.

Hero!

2009-09-14T22:36:00.001-04:00
I'm sure this will be one of many posts about Temple Grandin.

She's an amazing woman who happens to be autistic..
and also happens to connect with animals on an emotional level.

She's responsible for designing humane slaughter equipment.
Cattle are her favorite animal..

Big Pink!

2009-09-10T04:13:00.002-04:00
She's the mama of many little pigs at Full Moon farms in Georgia.
Big Pink is a Tamworth pig... they were originally raised in the North of England said to have links to an Irish breed and brought over to America in 1882 by Thomas Bennett of Rossville, Illinois.

The Tamworth breed has a few different characteristics.. physically they have long legs and necks.. are really bristly (sun protection) and are really muscular.
They're usually called the bacon pig because they're able to get really big (males up to 800lbs.) without having too much fat.
The thing that was really amazing to me.. was how their snouts dug, and literally turned up the ground as they foraged for root veggies!

The sad thing is they're on the Rare Breeds Survival Trust.. there are only 300 registered females in America.
So if you see some Tamworth pork.. buy it! Its amazing.. lets keep breeding this breed!

'round and round'

2009-09-06T19:08:00.003-04:00
One of my first memories of handling whole animals was sewing pigs to sticks... oh and salting the insides before we sewed them up (of course).
This sort of thing happens every weekend during the short Milwaukee summer... Usually involving pig, chicken, lamb, every once in awhile there will be a duck, or slab of beef, or turkey..
My dad grew up with this stuff, last time I was home he was telling stories of him and his friends hand cranking lambs on the spit for 6 or 7 hours.. their only payment was eating a bit of lamb.

There's a secret seasoning used for the chickens.. I still haven't been able to get it out of my dad or my uncle, hopefully one day I'll become worthy enough to know the special spice blend.
So here's a photo from my last visit home..some meat in the back yard!!

Athens, ga.

2009-09-05T02:58:00.002-04:00

The HomeLand

2009-09-03T21:46:00.000-04:00
A trip back to Milwaukee usually involves me using half my suitcase as a meat locker, transporting meat from my butcher in Astoria to my father (he loves their kulen) and in return I transport meat (mostly deer) back to the city.

Every once in awhile I'll get a whole smoked pork belly, or smoked pork loin from my uncle who will insist I take the whole piece, never just a pound or two.
I've pretty much got the system of wrapping the meat down (so my clothes won't smell like a smoke house). Although it involves yards and yards of plastic wrap, parchment paper, and aluminum foil, and in the end my suitcase weighs a ton and I have to pay extra baggage fees (a small cost in the grand scheme of things).

When I get back to the city there are a few lucky friends (mostly those who grew up in the Midwest) that receive homemade sausages and smoked goodies. I barter too (this is the good stuff!).

So this trip home was mostly summer sausage... deer jerky.. deer slimjims.. A quick shot of a few things I pulled from the freezer..

A Butcher's What?!

2009-09-03T04:18:00.000-04:00

My father is a butcher from Eastern Europe.
I grew up with a LOT of meat! As well as a respect for the animals we eat.
This blog is all about reconnecting us to our food.
Learning more about our animals from where they live, what they eat, their inevitable death, and all the ways we enjoy them and ultimately respect them…